Logos Quarrel

An honest conversation with Lila and Gogo about wearing logos and Maison Margiela Tabis.

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Gogo: You were really the person who came up with this idea so why don’t you give a little bit of context and insight. Introducing the topic. 

Lila: Amazing! We are going to be talking about logos - specifically luxe logos. I’ve always been strongly opposed to wearing any overt logos. I would roll my eyes at the girls walking down Madison Avenue with their Jackies literally bleeding the Gucci logo and I would think not only is that not cute, but you are also just showing your wealth. For me, as someone who… you know I don’t have a full time job, the money that I’m making is from summer jobs and school jobs. To me, when you're walking around with that stuff, you’re just trying to show your wealth. And I do understand that there’s obviously a spectrum of okay, how well are you hiding your wealth? You have the Fendi Baguette, their little um – 

Gogo: Buckle

Lila: Yeah. Their thing in the middle of those bags. I love those, but also you’re walking around and people are thinking, “oh, you just dropped 3K on a bag.” You know? So I think the overt logos take away from the actual design of the bag because  all people can think about is the price. 

Gogo: So… I personally… Listen, am I logos galore? No. I do think there is a tasteful way to go about dawning a logo or a brand label and everything like that. Like a Gucci belt with the double G’s, I am not a fan of that like I don’t think that’s cute – 

Lila: Me either and that’s a perfect example. Or a Cartier love ring? When people are wearing those I’m thinking, “Do you actually like the style?” 

Gogo: But here’s what I am going to say: I think that there are logos that can be used in a very tasteful way and in a way where you’re not just wearing it for the sake of wearing an expensive thing. You’re wearing it because you’re taking pride in the company and you’re taking pride in what the company represents and the craftsmanship that went into creating that piece. And of course I think that also can be applied to luxury items that also don’t have logos on it, but I think there is something very cool in wearing a Chanel brooch with mirrored C’s, you know what I mean? I think that… because that for example to me represents a type of woman and an essence of the brand and that’s something that I think is beautiful and is meaningful to wear. I don’t think it’s about just showing the fact that I was able to afford it because honestly, most likely if I’m wearing something with a logo I got it second hand. Let’s be real. But I do think that when it is done the right way, it is an homage to the designer. 

Lila: But can’t you pay homage to the designer in a less cliche way? Isn’t it even more beautiful to disguise their designs? 

Gogo: I think there’s something kind of, and again this has to be intentional and it depends on the way you wear it, but I think there could be something kind of kitschy and campy when wearing a huge logo like that, you know what I mean? Obviously I don’t mean in the DJ Khaled, like, Louis Vuitton thing – 

Lila: Yeah 

Gogo: I more mean… I love the Gucci Jackies with the Gucci print and the three stripes. There is something self-aware and… yeah almost a little ironic. I sort of think that that’s cool. 

Lila: But specifically with the Jackies and the three stripes, you can disguise that. Someone who doesn’t know fashion is not going to be like, “Oh! I know how much that bag is, I know where you got it, and what year it came out.” But with the two G’s and the actual logo, everyone knows the Gucci logo. And let’s reframe it to think… okay we’re two twenty year olds in New York City, why are we walking around with designer things? I think maybe my thing is – 

Gogo: Because maybe we saved up for it. 

Lila: Yeah but what if it's a person who’s going into any store, not buying it second hand who’s thinking “great this bag is bajillion dollars!” I want it. To me it’s embar– 

Gogo: Yeah, that person I don’t think should be wearing it. 

Lila: Right so if I’m on the train and I’m wearing my Gucci Jackie, I’m gonna feel embarrassed. 

Gogo: But why do you care? 

Lila: Because it’s such an overt display of wealth. That’s where it comes in for me. Just because… I don't know, it makes me feel uncomfortable. 

Gogo: But you know… I think it’s safe to say that both of us wouldn’t make a purchase like that– 

Lila: Yeah of course not

Gogo: Without researching the product, understanding the inspiration behind it, knowing the full context of it, and also it’s not like we’re just gonna spend fifteen hundred dollars, you know what I mean? That’s a big thing for us and I think that there’s something to be said about doing it for yourself and making an investment like that. And I think that we know why we are buying it - because we actually appreciate what it represents and the work that went into it and the messages behind it. We know the intention behind it, we know why we bought it, why does it matter? We’re not buying it just to show off the fact that we were able to buy it, we’re buying it because we actually care about it and we care about the artistry. So why does it matter to other people? 

Lila: That’s interesting because it makes me question whether fashion is just as personal as we think. Or does it have no social context? Are you not getting dressed for something– 

Gogo: Of course it has social context! I wouldn’t wear my second hand Gucci bag to one of the college parties that we go to. You know what I mean? Or I don’t wear that just to grab coffee, I would wear that to a nice dinner or a date. I would wear it to an occasion where I want to feel good about myself and feel proud to be wearing it, but also show respect to other people. I want to make myself look good and wear my best pieces for you to show that I appreciate you and I want to look good for you. 

Lila: So even going back to the first example of the Jackie bag with the Gucci logo over it, say it was all those colors but it was like SC, something so random it’s like no one knows it – 

Gogo: SC? 

Lila: SC. I'm just saying it was random letters, it’s not even a real brand. But those were the letters on it, would you really be interested in wearing that? 

Gogo: Of course there is a visual component, but there's also the component of the brand and of the history of that bag, you know what I mean? And I think it’s okay to want to buy something just because it comes from this brand if you know about it and you know your research and everything like that. I think that you are right that there definitely are people who shop just to show that they are a member of a certain class or a certain club or something like that and I don’t agree with that, of course I don’t agree with that. But I think that… yeah we know why we shop, we know what we’re doing, so for me personally I’m not gonna stop myself just because I could be interpreted by a stranger on the train like I’m some Upper East Side brat. 

Lila: Okay so I guess this is exactly where we differ, because everything I put my money into is private, you know this …. I’m really weird about this stuff.

Gogo: Mhm

Lila: But then on the other hand fashion is so outward facing because of the fact that it is viewed by other people. There is no way to hide what sweater or what coat you’re wearing if you’re going outside and interacting with the world and I think because of that the mix of those two in such an overt way, if I can find a bag for the same price that I would spend on a really luxe logo bag that maybe is a little more niche and interesting and not so mass produced,  I would feel comfortable. I would prefer that to a logo. 

Gogo: I would too, I’m not saying I only wear logos or I only buy things for the logo … I’m saying there is a way to do it and – 

Lila: Look classy.

Gogo: Yeah and obviously it’s like the iconic Jenna Lyons thing where she says to um… what the hell is her name? J… Jessel! She says to Jessel, she says, cause Jessel puts on something Balenciaga and then something Alexander Wang and Jenna’s like, “Are you kidding? Why are you wearing that? You do not have to be in head to toe designer right now. Only wear one, don’t wear it all.” And I think that’s a great –

Lila: Okay so we agree on that part. 

Gogo: Yeah and she's right, Jenna’s right. 

Lila: Great

Gogo: Great. Wait … last thing because we were talking about this a little bit before; the Tabis. 

Lila: sigh Oh God. Do you wanna introduce the Tabis for people who don’t know? 

Gogo: Yeah so the Maison Margiela Tabis, I’m sure people are well aware of them – 

Lila: Yeah if you’re reading this you’re well aware of them. 

Gogo: They have this kind of, some people say horse hoof-like shape to it, where there’s kind of a crease between the big toe and the rest of the other toes. Martin Margiela, when he was on some sort of trip to Japan, he saw these shoes, or these split toe socks that were kind of thought to promote holistic balance within Japanese culture in the 15th Century. I think he loved that idea and he loved that concept and so he took that design and applied it to a lot of the shoes he was making. There are boots, ballet flats, sandals, Mary Janes, there are so many different versions of it and I think to me, that is a great great example of an intentional decision a designer made that conveys the idea that it promotes, balance and wholesomeness, and especially in an an ancient culture, and then applied it to a modern day lens and a fashionable lens and now that is such a staple for Margielas. Everyone knows the Margiela Tabis. I would love to wear a pair of Tabis – 

Lila: You would? 

Gogo: I would LOVE… I have wanted the little ballet flats with the tiny little heels, the black ones, those Tabis… I have wanted those for four years, maybe not four years but like three years because I love what It represents, I love that choice, I love what it represents to the brand. A brand that I think is one of the most famous brands for innovation, pushing the envelope–

Lila: I agree that it’s an iconic brand but I can’t get past the fact that when I’m wearing these, because they have been so mass distributed and honestly worn in NYC and other major fashion cities, everyone knows how much I spent on them, they’re not unique anymore. And maybe this is the fault of Tiktok, Instagram, Pinterest, just like your article about gatekeeping. It just makes me feel like we're all wearing the same things. 

Gogo: But it’s about making it your own. 

Lila: Right but no one knows the history of these shoes. 

Gogo: But YOU know the history of it. 

Lila: And you think that makes a difference? 

Gogo: And I think that makes a difference. 

Lila: But also fashion is as much about storytelling as it is about aesthetic, it has two facets in that sense. Do you like the shoe in and of itself? If you saw that in Steve Madden would you think: I want to buy those shoes? 

Gogo: I think so, but I think it can be both. 

Lila: So you think part of it is the fact that it’s from a fashion house that you really respect? 

Gogo: Yes. And I want to honor and respect that designer’s choice and vision. 

Lila: And you don’t think you can honor and respect Margiela in a different form outside of the Tabis? 

Gogo: No I think you can, I think you definitely can. I just, yeah, I think the Tabis are so cool. 

Lila: I just don’t. To me, maybe it’s something I have to get over but when I see a Tabi worn

with a fairly generic outfit– 

Gogo: Sure, sure. Again, you have to style it correctly and you have to make it your own and you can’t just let them speak for themselves. 

Lila: I wish they did a limited quantity of Tabis. 

Gogo: Yeah but then not everybody could be wearing them. I love that they make it so that … it’s in their sneakers, you know what I mean? They do it for so many different styles and I love that. 

Lila: I struggle with Margiela footwear. I am gonna say that. I love their clothing, but I’m not a huge fan of their footwear in general. 

Gogo: Like the Replicas? 

Lila: Yeah I hate them. 

Gogo: I love them! That’s another shoe that’s based on another shoe, that’s why they’re called Replicas. They’re based on some Adidas thing. 

Lila: That’s hilarious. I can appreciate the message of it. For example, if my grandma knits me something I appreciate the sentiment of it but I’m not gonna wear it if I think it’s ugly. I think in that sense it bleeds into this logo conversation because it’s a statement shoe and people know where it's from and people know where you’re shopping and how much you paid for it and aesthetically I just don’t… it doesn’t go with my aesthetic at all and I remember the first time I saw them I was in like eighth grade in high school and a senior wore a pair of Tabis– 

Gogo: Really?!

Lila: Yeah and this was a long time ago and I– 

Gogo: Do you remember what kind? 

Lila: They were the boots. The black ones. The classics.

Gogo: Yeah those are the classics. Honestly those are my least favorite ones, I will say. 

Lila: And I remember turning to my sister and saying “What is happening? Did that person break their shoe?” And I did not know anything about brands at all –

Gogo: That’s hilarious to me. 

Lila: It’s hilarious and Cece goes, “That person dropped a penny on those shoes,” and we looked up the price and my jaw dropped and I remembered thinking, “What is happening? Why is a senior in high school spending that much money on shoes?” And you know what, this is all making me realize that I have to stop being judgemental about how people spend their money. But I do think that from the standpoint of my high school that was very much so an upper class private NYC high school, maybe that’s where I got this distaste of thinking… you’re just throwing on expensive stuff, not understanding the history of it, not appreciating it, and considering it fashionable because of the price tag. 

Lila: Totally and I think I need to explore more of the person who appreciates it and who styles it, rather than assume that anyone buying Tabis is doing so because they saw it on an influencer’s story and pressed checkout without thinking. 

Gogo: Alright, great first quarrel and squabble! 

Lila: Great convo Gogo! I’m excited for many more. 

Gogo: Me too.